It was time, the wife looked at
me, then at the calendar and then at the computer. She raised an eyebrow
and both of us nodded with barely contained smiles. What to do, we were having
serious withdrawal symptoms on our Goa fix.
What is this Goa fix, you may ask? It is a 3 days short break taken by us when
we fly off to our favourite holiday destination. Step 1, we check into our
assigned business hotel in the middle of Panjim that gives us a good functional
room, sans top end service & a very good buffet breakfast. Step 2, hire a two
wheeler and fish out a map (the new mobiles with the GPS have made the job even
simpler) close our eyes, put a finger and whichever destination the finger
shows & then take off for there. As a rule from Mumbai we fly to Goa because
one arrives quicker and fresh. The business hotel is chosen both for its
convenient location and a super deal (why spend more on a room which one shall
use only for sleeping after a day out) and the money that gets saved thus,
is spent (all of it ) on the food experience, which we love.
We are fair people and are fair to the other
destinations too albeit for forms sake. When the eyebrow goes up ( check circa sentence 2 of this article ) we also look at Coorg, Mahabaleshwar, Kochy etc and then always settle for Goa eliminating the other destinations because they do
not have Susegaat. Susegaat is the deal breaker...Susegaat and Food.
Goan Food is not just a cuisine, it is an experience. Commonly called Gomantaki
cuisine it shares some core principles with the food of coastal Karnataka which
extends on to its south border but Goa also has a confluence of the Portuguese
style too. Now those guys parked themselves here for more than four and a half
centuries till as recently as 1961. Hence they have indelibly left their mark
on both the way of life and its food.
This is the clear distinguishing feature of
the food in that belt. Towards the North of Goa is coastal Maharashtra and the Malwan district which has its own cuisine called Malwani. Now city dwellers that are not
familiar often confuse Gomantaki cuisine with Malwani food and very loosely use one
nomenclature when they are actually meaning the other. In my book this is a
cardinal sin. My roots are in Malwan district and as much as I enjoy eating in
those parts, like the people and their language the food too is very spicy. Malwani’s
too consume a lot of seafood but rely a lot on frying which does not happen
so much in Goan food. Second when it comes to the curries in Malwani food, the
main ingredient ( meat, shellfish, fish or vegetable ) is killed, annihilated. It
won’t be a stretch when I state that the Malwani style is Murder by Masala. The
masala in the curries is so intense that it overpowers the main ingredient completely. That never
happens in Goan cuisine where the spice is delicate and the curry light, bringing out the flavour of the fresh sea food, shellfish or meat. One can truly savour the taste of the main with the flavour of the spice.
The spirit of Susegad also applies to the
eating experience here in the state. Predominantly coastal it is little wonder
that seafood is an integral part of the cuisine here majorly, but we also have
meats like chicken, pork and beef specialties. Vegetarian food in Goa is
largely usal-pav, curry rice, seasonal vegetables and is largely limited to
some Hindu Brahmins. Everyone else is non-vegetarian (another reason why we
fell in love with this place) and for a long time until very recently the
eating out experience was purely non-veg. Today we have of all the atrocities
even Gujarati Thali’s available along with Udipi fast food and they jostle for
space with the McDonalds and the Pizza Huts. With the homogenisation of food
and the grass eating tourist who always insisted on his lentils and rice, the
original Goan cuisine restaurants have started ceding ground to the aggressive
touristy fare on offer which also includes a Punjabi or a Chinese. Continental
breakfasts are default given the sheer number of foreign tourists one sees
here. To be fair the local residents need this variety in eating out too and
they should not have to go to Punjab to eat a Makkai di Roti or a Tandoori
chicken when they can have it at Sher-e-Punjab.
Now with these aggressive intruders
stepping on to local toes, authentic and good Goan food has actually become
quite rare. Hence when we find it, we believe it is our bounden duty to share
this knowledge with the world at large that here is one more place that a true
connoisseur of the morsel must make an appearance. Many monsoons ago in Panjim
we landed upon a gem of a place called the “Mums Kitchen”. The place still exists
with many additions to the menu and we always go there. ( Covered in a previous blog post). But this trip was the discovery of two new places
• Foxes Fiesta : Near Saligao Church
• Cafe Bhonsle : Panjim, near the Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception.
Foxes Fiesta : All Day Dining
2/134 A, Pequeno Morod, Saligao, Bardez, On
Chogm Calangute Road, Goa
Last year when we were having our breakfast at
Ginger, Panjim we encountered a subtle change in the restaurant. The space was
sectioned off, it had a name – AULI (As U Like It ) and the food, which we earlier would avoid here, to eat at Kamath’s in Panjim, looked and tasted infinitely superior. The better half studied at the
Institute of Hotel Management – Goa and when she nodded on this change for the
better, I knew my assessment was accurate. The kitchen door swung open &
out stepped a gangly man with a wide friendly smile. It was Briston, a senior
from her college, who along with his wife Alka, had taken over the running of this restaurant at the Ginger. No wonder the food was different this time around. It was a typical conversation between two college mates who see each other after a long time. Many
names got thrown about and Briston mentioned that being in Goa he could touch base
with a lot more of them. One of them was a junior named Savio, who used to work
in the kitchens of the Taj. Savio and him were in the process of opening
their own independent restaurant at Saligao as partners. They opened in
Christmas 2013 to catch the holiday crowd and it was here that Briston invited
us.
We rode on our two wheeler from Panjim to Saligao, which is about a half an hour
drive across the Mandovi ,passing through Porvorim and then hitting the Calangute road. We passed a
few villages in the Bardez district till we saw the magnificent Saligao Church.
It stood lit up in the night, in an open field, in preparation for a feast a few
days on. Beyond the church, on the main road, in front of a quaint little
bungalow, was the glassy two storey facade of “Foxes Fiesta”. We parked in
the open courtyard & could immediately see that this was a work in progress, yet a labour of
love.
A bare unpretentious dining room with wide open windows that allowed the wind
to move about prevented the room from becoming stifling. It was summer in Goa
and the room was not air-conditioned. Paper lanterns lit the room and on the
whitewashed walls hung paintings reminiscent of the art of the Goan
artist Mario. These were by Briston’s brother, who stayed in the bungalow behind
the restaurant and offered them for sale. Briston waved us to a table as he circulated
through the various guests who were busy chatting and eating. The service boy
recommended a Cashew Fenny Mojito. This cocktail was something never tried earlier & we gave it a shot. We called for two starters, one a crumbed fish and the other sliced beef . The fish (Kingfish) came with tartar sauce was so yummy that we
forgot the drive and settled in. The bare minimum decor compellingly
draws your attention to the food. It can be a very risky strategy if the food
is ordinary which this was not. It was delicious. The Fenny Mojito could have
been chilled more but was totally refreshing with just the tarty bite that invigorates and cleans your palate. Unwittingly we had landed on the correct
drink for the fish and the beef. The beef cut was so beautifully done that
biting into it was pure pleasure. The Fenny raised the temperature and we
shifted tables to another directly under a ceiling fan. A few more fans
would help especially in sultry weather. It won’t take away from the rustic
bare appeal of the place that air-conditioning does.
We were now recommended
the dish that Chef Savio has dedicated to his mentor at the Taj, Chef Rego, the
coriander prawns. This was truly yum. The fresh coriander crunch in prawns
cooked to perfection has a taste that lingers. We had a Goan sausage with bread
after that as the main and we were quite full. The portion sizes are sufficient
for two and modestly priced. I would have loved another Fenny but had to drive
back and decided to err on the side of caution and skip it. Chef Savio stepped
outside the kitchen to have a word with Gauri and he looked tired on his feet. It was nearly 11.30 pm about closing time as we wound up. He insisted that we try a
dessert and he sent us a mousse that was so delicately done, it just dissolved The meal was memorable and promised to ourselves to be back with emptier tummies the next time.
We were shown around the place. Briston and Savio
have definite plans for the future and the place provides for expanded action.
They like prudent businessmen are taking it a step at a time which is wise. The cuisine is simple Goan & Continental fare with a line of starters, mains
and deserts plus a line of baked products for starters and mains. Their quiches
and pies have had rave reviews, only if our stomachs had permitted. What shall
stay with us is a simple unassuming place that had great people at its helm. Good
Food and Superb Hospitality.
Definitely worth a visit because the Chef is very talented & creative while the hospitality is genuine.
Cafe Bhonsle (Non Ac )
Casa Bhonsle (AC) : Lumch & Dinner
Altinho, Panjim, Goa...near Casa Moderna
It is impossible not to pass the Our Lady of
Immaculate Conception Church which is the signature image of the city of Panaji
or Panjim if one is staying there. We too passed by it many a times while
zipping about our local spots and shopping for cashews and fenny on 18th
June Road. Going through the by-lanes of Altinho my route often goes by the
simple Casa Moderna which was my mainstay eating joint during my work sojourns
in this city. This time around we saw a new Restaurant plate right next to that
building with a name as jarring as Cafe Bhonsle. The first thought that hit my
mind was what is a Bhonsle doing in Goa? It is such a strong Maratha name that
had the purist in me cringing. Then the wife mentioned in my ear that this
place comes recommended from friends who had visited earlier. Even then we
passed it by the next day and went about our business. After two totally
awesome meals at Mums Kitchen, one at Briston & Savio's Foxes Fiesta and one
in a shack perched on top of a hillock overlooking the Arambol beach it was our
last day in Goa. We had only one meal left which was a lunch. Our natural
instinct was to go back to Mums Kitchen again but something prompted us to give
this strange sounding restaurant a try. And this was a revelation.
We landed there at about 11.40 am and the restaurant had barely opened up and
was going through the motions of setting up for the day’s business. There was
just one customer there and the air-conditioned section was empty. The waiters
guided us to the glass lined veranda that overlooks the back of the old High
Court square and secretariat along with a few ramshackle buildings. In the
bright sun the view is nothing to write home about and we came back to a table
inside. In the mellow evenings the buildings of Goa assume a life and then it
is worthwhile sitting out but the bright sun exposes the wear caused by the elements.
And when in a restaurant in Goa one only needs to look outside if the view on
the plate is not good enough is a mischievous thought that came to mind. Not
true because every city joint cannot boast of a view does not mean they are not
good. We had a similar experience at the kooky Cafe Venite’ a few roads off
where we had the most remarkable meal.
A friendly waiter saw us to our new table. The decor is very comfortable, not
very well lit but sufficient to soothe ones nerves from the hot sun. We sat and
ordered our cool drinks. Iced lemon sodas sweet set us in the correct frame to
order. They serve liquor but we were in no mood for it just then. The menu is
extensive and one can order ones choice of seafood, meat and chicken, a la carte or in a Thali form. The wife ordered prawns curry rice and I ordered a Fish
Thali. Chapati breads are conspicuous by their absence in a typical Goan
restaurant and this was no exception. After a wait of 15 minutes the waiter
returned smilingly with a huge laden tray of the order. The Prawn curry rice
portion is large, seriously large and not for one person. That’s what my wife
was eating by herself. It was deliciously steaming in red golden gravy casting an
aroma that tantalized the nostrils.
The Thali that I looked upon was a foodies
delight. A Thali is a combination full plate meal by definition. Like in a
Buffet when one picks up all the food laid out in one plate and then retires
to eat in a corner the Thali comes pre-laid out and in limited quantity. But
this Thali costing Rs.169/- was gargantuan. It had a medium sized bowl of white
steam rice and in big sized steel vaatis ( bowls ) had one vegetable . One held
Kismur ( a salad that is made up of finely chopped onions, grated fresh
coconut, laced with a souring agent which could be lemon/sol/vinegar , chopped
chillies for the heat and sugar to douse it mixed with dry shrimps) , another
held sol kadi ( sol/kokum is a sour fruit and this is a curry made from its
liquor spiced with salt chopped coriander whole garlic pods and water. Across
the border in Maharashtra the sol kadi substitutes water for coconut milk both
first and second extracts )The Goan version is spicier yet cooler. Sol Kadi is
important to balance the heat in the spices of the meal and one can sip it
straight or mix it with rice. Either way works well. Another vaati held mussels
in a green masala. Delicately flavoured the mussels were very fresh and sweetly
fleshy. Yet another shallow long bowl held Prawns curry, more curry than prawns
for the rice accompaniment. Then there were two large pieces of fried pomfret.
This in Mumbai would have set us back in the setting we were in by Rs.750-
Rs.1000 without a doubt and may not even have been half as good. Each of the
items was beautifully prepared and the waiter hovered over looking after us nquiring over the meal and we were thoroughly impressed. We stopped talking
and simply dug in. While Foxes Fiesta was a work in progress as far as the
restaurant decor goes this one was the finished article. Cafe Bhonsle as a baby
was born fully grown and ready to face the world in its glory. After a leisurely
half an hour when both of us had polished off every single morsel and were
stuffed the waiter comes over and smilingly persuades us to try their tender coconut souffle. Against our better wishes we found ourselves nodding and straight transported to dessert heaven in just one
spoon. Outstanding. That portion too finished and a bill value that was well under a red K
note we compliment the owner and walk out.
Cafe Bhonsle will certainly have us there again the next time. It has superb food
and is an outstanding value for money. We recommend it in spades.
Both the places we liked turned out to be near Churches, it is little wonder that eating at both Foxes Fiesta and Cafe Bhonsle turned out to be nothing short of a divinely religious experience, one that we can come out of only by repeating it.